In God's Hands

What's wrong ?

I'm just tired, I guess.

Have you traveled far ?

Yeah.

You're a surfer, aren't you ?

Yeah, I'm a surfer.

I always wanted to try that, but you know, I just--

It seems like it would be so much fun, you know ?

So healthy. Yeah, it can be.

- Depends. - On what ?

On whether or not you make it your whole life.

Have you ?

I guess.

What would you say if I told you that there's a wave out there,

And by the time it hits this little island off of mexico...

It's gonna be massive ?

And all I can think about is riding it.

So you want to surf ?

And the waves near the town where you live aren't half bad.

And you start to improve.

And then you hear about this wave...

In a faraway country...

With a name you can't even pronounce.

What then ?

How far are you willing to go ?

What sacrifice are you willing to make ?

How good do you really want to be ?

[ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]

Mm. Ow. Ow !

Ouch. Man, this hurts.

[ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]

aw, mickey. You promised.

Mm. So beautiful.

Mickey. So beautiful.

We're dead. We are dead.

It's cool, don't worry about it. I'm just teaching her english.

[ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]

I've been watching him ride for four days now.

Having chronicled surfing all my life, I'm convinced...

That he's one of those rare athletes...

Whose spirit is as great as their talent.

I'm also convinced that he's preparing himself for something extraordinary,

And if I can do anything to help him, I will.

Hey ! Mickey's at it again. He promised.

Says he's teaching her english or something.

He's teaching her something.

Ladies first. - ladies first.

How are you ? How are you ?

I am fine. I am fine.

Your eyes are very beautiful.

Your eyes very beautiful.

And you're so very handsome.

You're so very handsome.

And so strong. - And so strong.

Very good. - Very good.

Now, if you really want to learn english...

They tell it like it is.

you give your hand to me. You give your hand to me.

And then you say hello. - You say hello.

[ man speaking french over loudspeaker ]

[ siren, loudspeaker continuing ]

Sounds like your daddy's here. Sounds like your daddy's here.

Yep. - Yep.

I'm really sorry, sir, but I was just teaching her english.

There's a lot of girls out there, mickey.

That's my point exactly. You gotta pick the right one.

You gotta make 'em come to you.

Otherwise, it's like marlin fishing.

- What ? - Marlin fishing, man.

You see a beautiful woman. She's like a big game fish.

If you really want her, you're gonna need a boat, bait, tackle, gasoline.

You gotta get out on the high seas.

And if you get a hookup-- if you get a hookup--

You gotta drag it all the way back to the boat.

But I have a question for ya: At that point, who's tired ?

- Who, you ? - No, goddamn it, the both of ya !

Beautiful women, you know what I say to them ? I say,

"you may be a symphony, baby. But I believe in song."

- I-I don't get it. You get it ? - Sometimes.

You all right ? You gonna be all right ?

Yeah, I'm fine.

Hey, english ! Over here.

English. No tv, you understand me ?

No shopping malls.

No tour buses. You hear me, english ?

No fast foods.

Leave us alone !

Hey, are they gonna execute us ?

I wasn't even doin' anything !

Oh, man. I'm gonna have a heart attack.

I'm full on gonna have a heart attack !

Chin up, kid. High tide raises all ships.

five more hours and we would have been out of here. Now we got nothin' !

what are you talkin' about ? We got till ten.

we're never gonna make that plane.

The harbor's only a mile away.

We're in jail, mickey.

This ain't about bein' caged, man.

I've seen birds in cages, and you ain't no bird. All right ?

Do you know that birds are the direct descendants of dinosaurs ?

They used to have teeth and shit. Them guys was fast, even the girl ones.

You know what "dinosaur" means ? It's greek, man.

It means, "terrible lizard." think about that.

[ tires squealing, motor racing ]

hey ! That's my board ! What'll we do ?

Run like hell !

Come on, little girls, don't run home in your underwear !

Come back here !

I sense angels at work here, boys.

There's that taxi again !

Look out ! Hey !

Charge !

hey, come on !

Pull me up !

- -

look at that stinkin' boat. It's the most beautiful thing I've ever seen.

It's an epiphany. Know what an epiphany is ?

not now, mickey. Can't you see ? We're in trouble !

No tv ! No diet colas !

No shopping malls ! Do you hear me, cue ball ?

hey ! Hands off !

I said, leave our women alone !

Come on, get over here ! This thing's gonna take off !

every sport has its own mythology.

Its legends:

Joe louis, muhammad ali,

Over here. Come on in ! Mickey mantle, babe ruth,

Michael jordan.

Faces you see on television.

Surfing has its own mythology too.

Most of it based on what you never see.

Hang on, mickey. Hang in there, buddy.

stories of great rides, told over and over again...

Of unimaginable waves in obscure, faraway places.

These are the people who seek these moments out,

Traveling like spirits from country to country.

- you okay ? Good, get in. - I'm okay.

[ man on megaphone, indistinct ]

That son of a bitch. I'll tell you about that son of a bitch.

Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water.

After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water.

Kissed by nature. Not a bad guy to have around...

When your back's up against a wall, either.

I like you, mickey. You're a good lad.

Well, thank you, captain. That's a very nice thing of you to say.

Straight flush.

I sure hope this doesn't screw things up between us.

- Hey, keoni ! Happy birthday. - Thanks.

Ah, it's a good life.

This isn't just a skateboard ramp, all right ?

We-- we build temples to adrenaline.

This is like chinese architecture, you know ?

'cause they didn't build to the size of the human body.

They built temples to the size of the human spirit.

You know where waves come from ?

Imagine you're a giant...

Standing in the middle of the bay of alaska.

You drop a boulder in the water.

And the rings fan out.

The swells keep going until something gets in their way:

An island, a continent,