Proximity

Time doesn't wait for anybody.

None of us has any time to waste.

They say time is money

but the things you can buy with money are cheap.

Time you can pay for,

but you can't buy any.

In spite of all our modern conveniences and technologies,

everybody tells you they don't have

time for this or time for that.

Well, of course they don't,

because they lose their perspective of the present.

The present is just a fleeting moment.

It comes, and then it's gone,

maybe without even being noticed.

We think about the past,

and nostalgia makes us sad,

or we worry about the future,

and are too anxious to be in the present.

The past and the future are just concepts

that exist in the present.

There's nowhere to go.

Nothing happens next.

You are already here.

- Good afternoon. - Hello.

How do you say cowboy, yeah, yeah, cowboy.

There's a tough question.

Your hands numb yet?

Yeah, it's cold.

It's snowing, dude.

Here we go Craig, it's snowing.

Here's the hunt for Red October.

It's like, how long would your body last

if you just ran out there in a Speedo

and a pair of swim fins.

Swam all the way out and back.

- Um, we came all the way from warm Hawaii

to come and surf in freezing cold Scotland.

- That's the quote of the trip right there.

For sure.

I surfed in Alaska once,

but I never remember a thing like that.

- You know, check in a couple times a year,

and just think to yourself, what do you want to do.

- Wait, when did you win your first world title?

92.

The year I was born.

- Yeah, just a little jump on you there.

I remember what, being in like my early 20s

and catching waves on backdoor and pipe

thinking that there's no way in hell

I'll ever catch a wave better than that.

The bar's set so high now.

Whether or not I've already caught

the best wave of my life is, is the question that--

You don't want to know.

I don't really want to know the answer to,

I always want to be asking the question.

That's the question I've been asking myself

since I was a little kid.

I feel like contests are so natural to me.

I can just show up, go to my work,

do my thing, and leave,

but knowing that I'm going on a trip with Dave,

yeah, I'm definitely a little bit nervous about this

because this is not really my specialty.

- From my own travels and meeting people,

it's just purely my own experience but,

it's that we don't really acknowledge each other

beyond just that accomplishment.

I feel like, great, you won that contest,

or great, you surfed this wave.

You don't go, hey, you know like,

the way you smile when you surf

lights up the whole line, that's so cool.

Thank you for doing that.

And you're just like, well that's just me,

I'm just doing that.

- When I look at photos, I'm like,

why am I smiling all the time?

Instantly, like as soon as I'm paddling out,

I'm just like, go out, this is sick.

It's like, yeah.

- I've always wanted to know if that was

something you think about, and it just is happening.

Yeah, it just happens.

This is the winner here.

Here we go, let's go.

- Alright, ready? - Let's do it.

This is real race.

Go!

Go.

Mine is light and nimble.

Yeah, but his legs are shorter

than Tom Carold.

What the fuck.

You know what I think?

That's what I think about that crap.

- That's a full brotherly tantrum right there.

I didn't even think about that,

that we hadn't done a trip before.

We haven't done a trip, huh?

We've just like surfed around and,

well I know we like the same kind of waves.

- Wait, do you still get nervous?

In contests?

Yeah.

Sometimes.

Just, if I don't feel confident, I do.

There's an expression in the psychology world.

If you spot it, you got it.

The judgments you make of others

are quite often reflections of yourself.

If you get to a spiritual place within yourself

and you're competing and that's all connected,

that you're happy for the other guy when he beats you.

That's a hard place to obtain,

because if you're totally comfortable with yourself,

which is more important than winning something,

that you're happy when the other person wins.

It's funny because I feel like Dave and I

are very similar people in a lot of ways,

but the paths that we've taken are so different.

That's a skill I don't have.

But you could though.

Yeah, if there's enough incentive in it for me.

If you could ride like tons

of different boards in every heat.

Yeah, that would, that would probably help.

You've been on the road for probably 10 years maybe, yeah?

Nine, 10 years.

Yes, this is my 10th year.

And how does that, does it feel different?

- Yeah, I had a pretty one track mind for a lot of years,

just like, yeah, let's just surf and win,

and that's kind of it.

If I could tell the 10 or 12 year old me

that I was going to get to do this trip,

just me and Dorian, I would literally lose my mind.

That was there.

I was like, you can't get much better than that.

Ow, no, hey.

I remember just being a little guy

and hearing that line, we should dance

like no one's watching, and it's just like yeah, totally.

That's just it.

How to surf, how I'm feeling to surf,

and if things come from that, awesome,

what a blessing, and if they don't, whatever.

I'm just having a grove in my own way,

and that's cool, too.

Must be a pretty good dancer, then,

if you stand by that.

I'm terrible.

Nice to get the waves.

Doesn't always happen.

Did we want to show up on this trip

and drive around for three days in the rain

and get completely skunked?

That's now like what we would plan, right?

I'm fine with it, though.

And you just roll with it,

you roll with the punches, like,

you deal with that, and out of that comes

good things, I'm convinced.

You have this idea of like

the ultimate wave of Jaws, you could be

waiting until you're 30 right now for that chance.

Yeah, or it could be weeks.

Or it could be weeks.

And you always have to be ready for that.

So dry reef.

Yeah, like a foot of water on the reef.

It's not really a wave.

- You kind of blend the gender thing, you get rid of it.

It's like, yeah, I've always thought it was funny,

I mean, there's always the big complement,

you surf like a guy.

In my head, my most favorite male surfers to watch

are Joel--

Surf like women?

Yourself, Tom Curren.

And to me having that splash of femininity

is exactly what makes it so stylish.

It just looks magical.

To me, that's what style is.

Did you ever compete?

I competed.

Just wasn't built for it.

Have like guys paddling over me, and I'd be like,

aw, I don't need to fight you for this wave.

This isn't what it's about.

You go, you can have it.

- If I try and save my queen right now,

you're going to get me check in the next move.

Uh huh, I am.

- I realized I won a few games on the last move,

and it just put this thing in my head,

don't ever count yourself out.

Yeah, you never know.

You're never out.