The Devil's Pass (La passe du diable)

Some tragedies require a predestined land.

The tragic event that's going to happen here,

only Afghanistan could serve as a theater for.

Afghanistan, bristled with giant mountains,

and yet the meeting point of Central Asia.

Afghanistan, marked by unnamed ruins,

haunted by the memories of the first Aryan tribes,

of the phalanxes of Alexander the Great, of the followers of Buddha,

of the warriors of Islam and terrible hordes of Genghis Khan.

Here, legend mingles with reality

and the supernatural being enters quite naturally into existence.

The Devil's Pass.

This Mongolian horseman who, nowadays, rides across the Hindu Kush,

is arguably the pivotal character of the tragedy that's about to begin.

Should one see a humble traveler like those on Afghan trails,

or rather an envoy of unknown powers?

The envoy of fate.

This rush, this attack, this clash, is called the buzkashi.

The game is played by grabbing a headless goat carcass.

And after dragging it across a vast area, throwing it in the goal.

But the pack of rival horsemen, called the chapandazes,

continuously badgers and attacks the holder of the hairy carcass.

Mokhi!

Mokhi!

Mokhi is one of the best chapandaz.

Perhaps the best. Today, he is unlucky.

Rhalil, a loyal friend, leans over Mokhi.

"I can't move. My leg is dead."

Free of his most dangerous rival,

Uroz wins the buzkashi.

Among the wild crowd, the rider in the black turban is impassive.

He's not looking at the winner or defeated.

He's watching a child, Rahim, Mokhi's little brother.

His body and pride hurt,

Mokhi no longer feels the wooden and leather saddle.

It's a load for his friend's horse.

Mokhi's horse is taken back by his little brother, Rahim.

His village friends are laughing and singing,

and it's only justice.

People in these regions, simple and tough men,

are not kind with misfortune or defeat.

In his yurt, Mokhi's father is listening to the celebration.

Is it to salute his son's victory?

"Here's that son!"

"The giant, the champion!"

"The family's honor! Curses upon him!"

"The clumsy, the incompetent, the disgraceful!"

In the village, the celebration resounds. It sings the glory of Uroz, Mokhi's rival.

Uroz recognized Rahim,

but the child went past him without looking at the champion.

Rahim is on his way to find the only man that can heal Mokhi.

Under his yurt, Mokhi can finally express his pain.

He won't participate in the Royal Buzkashi in Kabul.

But here's the miracle man.

The healer that Rahim went to find.

The child leans on his big brother for whom he has an admiration

and a passionate affection.

Feelings that are often hidden in this harsh world.

Mokhi is hiding his sorrow.

"Take care of my horse."

Rahim obeys.

Before leaving the yurt, he desperately glances at the healer.

The only hope for Mokhi to race the buzkashi for the king's birthday

lies in the hands of this man.

In the village shared stables,

the grooms are celebrating Uroz's victory and offer him a gun of honor.

But Rahim scorns these festivities.

All he thinks about is healing his brother's horse.

It's his consolation, his pride.

"Bring those eggs to your brother."

The cheerful are on Uroz's side.

The child's hatred whets against the old chapandaz.

If only he could avenge his brother!

But he's just a shepherd of the steppe returning to his father's herds.

Herds that are the wealth and glory of northern Afghanistan

because the fleece covering these rams, sheep and lambs,

is called Astrakhan. It's the best in the world.

Mokhi and Uroz's fathers

came to choose one of the most valuable rams.

This one looks great. The governor will be pleased.

Each year, in Maymana, the capital city of the province,

the governor's giving a party for the chapandazes

who'll then leave for Kabul for the Royal Buzkashi.

The ram is used as a trophy for the party.

Across the hills, where the fall works take place,

the chapandazes are headed for Maymana

to meet with the governor.

Farmers are greeting them along the road.

The chapandazes are the pride of this people.

They are cheered, celebrated.

When they go through villages, they are offered watermelons.

Rhalil never resists the temptation.

The chapandazes who make up the province's team

receive from the governor of Maymana

the uniform they'll be wearing before the king.

A silk jersey on which astrakhan skin is sewn by way of a crest.

A feast follows the presentation of the silk jerseys.

The governor is invited, along with the chapandazes,

and the main public figures dressed in their best chapans.

The guests do justice to the meal's abundance.

Rice prepared in 20 different ways, roast lamb, cheese curds,

jam with sheep's fat and beautiful fruits.

The governor must solve a problem.

Despite his fall, is Mokhi able to compete in the Royal Buzkashi?

Rhalil fell asleep, overwhelmed with food. He won't be able to defend his friend.

The governor decides that Mokhi won't go to Kabul.

Another chapandaz will replace him.

He asks Uroz to tell Mokhi the news.

In the village, children also have their party.

On donkeys,

they fight for a goat skin in a parody of buzkashi.

Among the competitors, Rahim's the fiercest, the most violent.

He has his brother's honor to avenge.

Mokhi recognized Uroz and his friends.

He knows they're bringing his verdict.

He must contain his impatience.

Dignity, politeness and hospitality prevail above all.

"Bring the tea!"

At the children's buzkashi, Rahim took the win.

As a reward, he is offered a beautiful gray ram,

a symbol of good luck.

"Your brother's going to be so glad you won, Rahim."

Uroz announced the governor's decision.

"What? Mokhi can't go to Kabul with the other chapandazes?"

"It's unfair."

This isn't the time, Rahim.

Mokhi doesn't care about a kid's buzkashi when he's forbidden the Royal one!

Before he's out of the team, Mokhi asks to take an official test.

He demands it!

Mokhi's judges are gathered.

The governor of the province, village chiefs, tribal chiefs,

all are experienced men.

Younger, they were elite horsemen. They will be severe and unforgiving.

Mokhi knows it.

In the whole audience, only one person is as anxious as him,

it's Rahim.

"Mokhi, show us if your leg's healed."

"Show us your flexibility."

"Somebody slaughter a goat," asked one of the judges.

"Show us your strength."

"You're still a great chapandaz, Mokhi."

The governor declares Mokhi's back in the team

and that he'll go to Kabul.

Rahim will also be a great chapandaz.

"If your dad allows it!"

Mokhi is about to leave for Kabul.

He will be away for weeks, so as a goodbye,

he gives Rahim a buzkashi lesson.

Rahim is happy.

His older brother, his idol, is teaching him how to become a champion.

"Aren't I a real chapandaz?" asks Rahim.

"You will be, if you listen to me."

Rahim dares to confess his dream.

"Take me to Kabul."

But the older brother is too old for pipe dreams.

"Then I'll go by myself," says Rahim.

Mokhi's laugh only strengthens the child's plan.

"I'll reach Kabul first."

"What about the money?"

"I'll find some."

Mokhi continues to mock him.

"Yeah, right! See you in Kabul then!"

See you in Kabul...

The rider in the black turban listens.

He knows how much destiny uses the power of feelings

and the naivety of hearts to make its way.

The road from Maymana to Kabul passes by the Mazar-i-Sharif mosque.

The crowd gathers around Ali's shrine, the fourth caliph.

Muslims of all interpretations worship this sanctuary of Central Asia.

Mokhi, Uroz and their friends

have stopped in front of the mosque and are praying,

mingled with the mass of the faithful, before heading towards the capital.

Devotions are complete.

As a final tribute to the sanctuary and to earn the protection of saint Ali,

the horsemen go around the mosque.

The riders gather outside the city.

Through the mountains, they'll start their long descent to Kabul.

Rahim made up his mind.

He will also go to Kabul.

To pay for his trip, he will sell his gray ram.

He needs to find the best buyer at the bazaar.

But the ram, as if he guessed Rahim's plan,

wants to find his young master.

A village kid doesn't often see so much abundance and wonders.

Here are the fur hats.

The most glorious headdress. The cap of the greatest horsemen.

While the ram found what attracts him most at the bazaar,

Rahim gathers all his money, a few Afghanis,

to buy the prestigious hat.

Rahim,

you already are under the halo of the chapandaz.

Lost in the caravanserai,

in search of his young master,

the lucky ram disappeared.

And, in vain,

Rahim will look for him.

"My ram? Have you seen a big gray ram?"

Nobody's seen your ram, Rahim. Nobody.

Except perhaps for this smoker, in the shade of the labyrinth,

eternal traveler who seems to become attached to the child.