Louis Theroux: Law and Disorder in Lagos

SINGING

This programme contains some strong language.

'I was in Lagos, Nigeria,

'finding out how this dynamic and chaotic city polices itself.

'For several weeks, I'd been living on both sides of the law.

'The area boys - toughs who run the neighbourhood.'

I can kill you and eat you.

If it gets to that level.

'The glamorous kingpin to whom many of them owe allegiance.'

His shoes! A very fashionable person.

He does his shopping in Italy. You do the shopping in Italy? Yes.

'I'd also been riding with the paramilitary task force

'created to bring order to the streets with strong-arm tactics that made them equally feared.

'My idea - to experience life at its most lively

'in a city torn between law and disorder.'

There's a slightly weird atmosphere.

HORNS HONK

'I was on my way to Lagos Island,

'the downtown area and the oldest part of the city.

'A youth leader nicknamed Shevchenko offered to introduce me to a smalltime gang boss, Tawa.'

Nice to meet you. I'm Louis.

Tawa, what is this place?

This place is... UNCLEAR

Is this your base? Yes, this is my base.

You control the market around here? Yeah. And the bus stop here?

Yes. You control it? Yes.

'Tawa claimed legitimacy by being part of a national transportation union.'

She's a leader of the union.

Branch. You're in charge of a branch?

A branch chairman?

"Motorcycle operator of NURTW". Yeah.

"Motorcycle operator, NURTW".

You take money from the motorcycle drivers? Is that what he does?

You're a woman and these are strong men? Yeah.

Can't they attack you? How do you keep control?

Nobody can attack me. Why not?

Like god. Because of god? She's a god.

Can you fight? I fight. How?

Anyhow. Like a man. Like a man? Yeah.

Is it true? Yes!

Who's your number two? Your vice?

This one vice. You're the vice? Louis.

Your name? Xonde.

What does this mean?

That shows he's a tough guy.

What happened? That looks painful.

Can you ask him how it happened?

That's like a euphemism. Exactly.

So he doesn't want to talk about...?

'Tawa took me on a tour of her neighbourhood.

'She told me she collects union dues from commercial vehicles

'and an unofficial tax on local shopkeepers.'

If a boy goes to a shop and says, "I've come from Tawa.... Where is her money?"

And the man says, "I don't have any money."

What would happen... What?

If he told me, you understand? I would do it for him.

You'd let him off? Uh-huh. "It's OK. I'll come back tomorrow."

He would have to pay? Yeah.

'A little later, a fight broke out among Tawa's boys,

'for reasons that weren't immediately apparent.'

What's the problem?

Let's go. Let's go.

What's the problem? It's just the money.

The money? Yeah. He wants some money? Yeah. They want money.

Do you think she's had enough? Yeah. Exactly.

'It became clear we were no longer welcome.

'There are area boys throughout Lagos. Many are union members.

'It's believed that they use their positions for extortion

'and run their neighbourhoods like personal fiefdoms.

'I was on my way uptown, to an area called Oshodi

'hoping to meet one of the union's top bosses.

'His name was MC. I had an "in" with his trusted aide, Mamoc.'

How long have you been working with MC?

Less than two years but I've known him for, say, 20 years.

20 years? Yes. You grew up together? Yeah. We grew up together.

What is it about the relationship that works?

You see... I believe something that...

Should I move up?

How do you do? I'm fine.

Do you know me? No.

Louis. Comcoco Zaria.

People call me Zaria.

Yes. Zaria? Comcoco Zaria.

The MC's Vice? Deputy. Yes.

Second-in-command.

What do you do? We are the National Union.

National Union of Road Transport Workers? Yes.

What are some of your responsibilities?

I don't understand you. What you basically do.

When MC's not around, you can always count on him.

So whatever he does, in MC's absence,

you take it that it's MC that is doing it.

Do you understand me? Yes, I do. That's my job.

So you have a big team under you? Yes. Many people?

You can't count them. I have to pass the MC. Hm.

Do you understand me? No.

Let me make a comparison of the President and the Vice President.

Your President is answerable to everything that happens within his government.

But you discover that the Vice-President

takes a broader and wider responsibility than the President

in terms of mobilisation.

The Vice-President does a lot of mobilisation than the President.

Am I making any sense? Yes. That is what basically he does.

How many boys do you have under you? You can't count them.

So you would have hundreds of boys under you? Thousands? Yes.

How did you come to be the Vice President?

There are a lot of intrigues. It's his loyalty.

His unflinching loyalty to MC.

Just from loyalty to MC. Yes. Loyalty.

It's more like a court of a king, if you know what I mean? Royalty.

It's the court of a king? You just hit the nail on the head.

VOICES AND MUSIC

Where has MC gone? That's him on the high table. On the high table? Yeah.

'The event we'd arrived at was a Muslim celebration.

'It involved MC donating large amounts of money to a local mosque.'

SINGING

'I'd hoped it might be a chance to get to know the man himself,

'but he had other duties to attend to.

'My interview would have to wait.

'A few days later, hoping to understand more about the finances of his operation,

'I arranged a tour of MC's territory.'

There's a toll that you pay. Who does?

There's a toll that you pay.

The traders? Yes.

Who do they pay the toll to? Of course, to MC.

All these traders? Yes. And the buses, too? Everybody.

Which ones?

Do you know him? I know him. Shall we say a quick hello?

Hello. Hello. How you doing? How's business? All right, thank you.

How much?

From each...?

The bikes are like taxis? They're like taxis.

Is that right? Yes. And you take the fee here? They take the fee here.

Some goes to MC? You know, MC... He's in charge of collecting? He's in charge.

The National Union of Road Transport Workers.

Yes.

Thank you.

It's good for one day? Yeah. For one.

At the end of the day, the guys will take their money to MC? Yes.

Or once a week? It's a weekly thing.

What are the fees for?

What service do they provide,

these boys who take money from the bikers and the commercial vehicles?

Um... A lot.

The police cannot harass them. They don't get harassed by the police?

That is the primary thing.

You would think the police would protect them because that's what the police are for, to protect people.

Yeah, to protect people, but sometimes, all over the world, the police can be over-zealous.

All these ladies pay a toll as well? Everybody.

Can we ask one of them? Yeah. We can.

Do you know MC? Yeah.

Who is he? Oluomo. Oluomo.

Do you know MC? Yes. You know him? Oluomo. Yes.

And, do you, er... Do you pay him a fee?

No.

She's saying she doesn't pay MC. It's more of a political thing.

This woman is shy about saying that. She's shy about saying it?

You have to pay. Why?

Why can't she say that she's paid? She wouldn't say that to you! Why?

Partly for security reasons. For security reasons, she won't say?

No, no.

Come on. You pay. Don't you agree?

SPEAKS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE

SPEAKS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE

Who are you? I'm a part of local government. What do you mean?

Maybe you do. I work in the National Assembly...

So National Assembly will be taking naira without receipt?

Let's move on. Get out, my friend!

You are the worst selling... It's like you are crazy.

You are crazy in the head...

ALL TALK AT ONCE

ARGUMENT CONTINUES

So, what was the man's problem?

He's not balanced. He's crazy?

He said you should give him money. We should give him money?

He wanted money from us? Yes. For what reason? That is why I said the man is not balanced.

'It had been another confusing day in Lagos.

'I'd been struck by how MC had an influence on everyone on the street.

'I wasn't clear on whether the money was going into the union or into his pockets,

'or how willingly it was being paid.

'I was eager to meet the man himself.'

Good morning, everyone. Morning, sir.

Get yourself in threes. Don't be more than three...

'I was at the headquarters of KAI, the Kick Against Indiscipline task force.'

Those of you here, move back.

'They were created to enforce environmental legislation

'and bring order to the commercial areas of Lagos.'

Anybody in life that is lazy is a hopeless person.

But when you are very agile and hard working, the reward is there.

'They are commanded by formidable army veteran, Captain Danjuma,

'better known as the KAI master general or the KMG.'

'Ten-shun!

Shut up!

Ssh! Don't be stupid!

I don't want anybody to disappoint me and my commanders.

Don't disappoint this government.

The Lagos government have confidence in you. They love you, respect you.

They want to take care of you.

If we are ready to do all that, you must pay us back by doing good.

Am I right? Yes, sir!