Chasing Mavericks

We all come from the sea...

but we are not all of the sea.

Those of us who are, we children of the tides...

must return to it again and again.

Four a thousand. Five a thousand.

Six a thousand. Seven a thousand.

Eight a thousand.

Nine a thousand.

One a thousand. Two a thousand.

Three a thousand. Four a thousand.

Five a thousand.

Six a thousand.

Seven a thousand. Eight a thousand.

Go. Ball. Go over there!

Pick it up, pick it up, pick it up.

- Ten a thousand. - Come on!

Eleven a thousand.

Come on, Jay, let's go! We're gonna get wet.

Man, did you see that?

It's building!

That was the longest one yet.

One a thousand. Two a thousand.

Oh. Three a thousand.

Four a thousand.

Five... Sophie, no!

Jay, no! Look out!

Jay!

Oh, yeah, you're smiling now, big shot.

But if I hadn't paddled around the Point at that exact moment...

It's a miracle, that's what it is.

And I don't believe in miracles. How old are you?

What, 6, 7?

Eight.

And three quarters, sir.

Well, you just used up your entire allotment of dumb luck.

Here's a novel idea.

On your next little date, why don't you go to the arcade...

or pee-wee golfing.

Or something that doesn't involve getting you killed.

Because he likes to time the waves. Shh.

What? You do.

What do you mean, time the waves?

Um, to see if the swell is building or dropping.

The more seconds between them...

each wave in a set, it means it's getting bigger.

Who taught you that?

Nobody, sir.

Just figured it out.

You just figured that out on your own?

Okay.

Thanks. Bye.

- Bye. Okay. - Bye.

Go straight inside, all right?

Close the door.

What now?

How big you reckon that wave was, sir?

It's a small world, kid...

but how they gauge the size of waves, well, that differs...

from place to place, so, hard to say.

So it might be bigger somewhere else?

Look...

it was definitely big enough, okay?

Like I said, kid, small world.

I appreciate you saving Sophie, Jay.

One of the bravest things I've ever seen.

MOm?

MOm?

Hi, baby.

Unh. Sorry, Mama's not feeling so good.

Don't worry...

Dad will change his mind.

There are hot dogs in the fridge.

Hey-

Hey. Need a hand?

Heh. What with, the coffee or the cupboard?

Uh, you just missed Roque again.

Just put her down.

Ahem. Yeah.

I had to help a friend out after work. Mm-hm.

I'll go in, I'll give her a kiss.

Kiss would be nice.

Conversation every once in a while, maybe nicer.

Time to wake up, Jay.

Okay.

How do I look?

You look awesome.

I have an interview at Sears.

So, I'm coming home at 12:00 and we are going to get school supplies.

Good luck.

Thank you.

Excuse me. Ma'am?

Hi. Your husband home?

Uh, well, depends on who's asking.

I'm Jay Moriarity, ma'am.

He saved my life down at Three Mile yesterday.

Oh, sweetie, I'm sorry, I think you're mistaken...

because Frosty was up in Scott's Valley laying roof yesterday.

No, ma'am. He was surfing the exact same time...

I used up my allotment of dumb luck.

Is that so?

Frosty is actually down at The Point right now...

but is there anything that I can help you with, Jay Moriarity?

Well, I seem to be missing parts on the bottom of my board.

Okay.

Fins, fins, fins.

Where does he keep them? Oh. Wow.

They call that thing a gun.

It's for riding the really big monsters.

Like that.

Where is that?

You should ask Frosty yourself.

Thanks.

Beat it, little trash.

Blondie, what are you doing?

Hey, man, you got to go in.

You're bleeding.

I can't.

Not until I get up.

Dude, believe me, nobody gets up their first time.

Okay, okay. I'm only doing this because you're gonna...

start attracting sharks with all that blood.

When I say "now," you paddle as hard as you can...

towards shore, you got it?

Now? No.

Now? No.

Now? Yeah! Paddle, paddle, paddle!

Will I wake up? Some dream I made up?

No, I guess it's reality.

What will change us? Or will we mess up.

Our only chance To connect with a dream?

Say a prayer for me Say a prayer for me.

Say a prayer for me For me, for me.

Say a prayer for me Say a prayer for me.

I'm buried by the sound.

Hey, paddle. Paddle, paddle, paddle! Now!

Go, go, go!

Yeah!

You stealing a page out of my playbook there?

Couldn't help myself, Blondie.

It's always been a keeper.

Hey, little trash.

Got a question for you. Yeah.

What exactly are you trying to compensate for...

with this long board of yours? Huh?

I was about to ask you the same thing about that bat.

Y'all come back now, you hear?

Come on, let's go! Okay, okay, we're coming.

Sometime today, please.

Hey, Kim. Hi!

How was it out there?

Feels good. Feels like the swell is building. Yeah? Did you time it'?

Kimmy, come on, we got to go.

Um, all right, well, maybe I'll see you out there.

Later. Whoo!

Let her be, dude.

She's too old for you.

Get out! Get out of my house! Aah!

- Get down! - Mom!

And you stay down there! I'm tired of this! Get off me! Okay?

- Mom! - I'm not going anywhere!

Jay-

Easy, kid. This is about back rent! She tried grabbing me!

All I did... He owes us money!

- Get off me! Unh! - No!

Take it easy, kid!

- Jay! No! - Jay!

Jay, stop, stop! Jay!

Cops! Cops!

They're coming! Come on!

Hey, hey! Break it up! Break it up!

Get off me!

This is Victor-1-2. We're on the scene.

Offshore buoys are reporting seas of 25 feet at 16 seconds.

Coming from the west northwest at 295 degrees.

Northwest winds are forecasted at 15 to 20 knots.

Swells are expected to reach up to 28 feet...

at 17 seconds near shore.

Morning, Frank. Careful out there, son.

Hey, buddy. What's up?

Next level out there today, boys.

Twenty-five at 16.

Let's rock and roll.

Right.

Let's do it.

Yeah, Frosty!

Now, we'll agree to forget how you got up here...

but as far as most are concerned, that wave's a myth. Like a Loch Ness monster.

The four of us who surf there want to keep it that way. Is that clear?

Buoys reporting swells of 28 feet at 17 seconds coming from...

How big was that wave? Did you hear what I just said?

Yes, sir.

Loch Ness monster.

How's it going over there?

Mom's not renting out the back anymore.

Means I get my own room.

But I got to double-up my shifts at Pleasure Pizza.

And your father?

He wrote me a letter a few years back from his base in Panama.

So what'd he say?

I don't know.