Tales from Northumberland

It's a land with more castles than any other English county.

Ancient ruins offering a unique window into our past,

and our darkest night skies .

For me, everything that makes Britain great can be found right here in Northumberland.

But I guess I would say that - I was born here.

And it's a place I'm still very proud to call home .

I'm Robson Green, and in this series I'm going to discover

how Northumberland's turbulent past shaped the world we live in today.

A battle took place on these fields that changed the course of British history.

I'll meet the people who are keeping its history alive.

It's one of the biggest days of my life.

So join me on a magical journey .

- It won't all be plain sailing . - (Screeching)

- Ow! You swine! - (Laughs)

I haven't slept a wink!

How do you get yourself in these situations?

That is unbelievable! Look at that sight!

These are my tales from Northumberland .

Ripped By mstoll

Stretching from just north of Newcastle right up to the Scottish border,

Northumberland has more than 100 miles of unspoilt coastline.

And a vast and rugged countryside

where you can walk for miles and not see another soul.

It's a region I thought I knew well, but over the next eight weeks

I'm going to travel the length and breadth of the county

by land, sea ... and air,

to experience a whole new side to a part of the world I love.

As England's most sparsely populated county,

Northumberland has become a haven for a vast range of wildlife.

Today, I'll be getting back to nature on the Farnes,

a group of islands just off the northeast coast .

But my journey begins on more familiar territory, in the port of Seahouses.

It's a place I know and love from many childhood holidays.

It hasn't changed. I've been coming here since the age of seven.

Every year we would come here.

Mind you, it took us about three hours from where we lived.

It was only 40 miles away.

Six of us packed in my dad's Hillman Imp.

There's a saying: No place worth going is easy to get to.

And once we got here, I'm telling you it was worth it.

Seahouses Harbour was created in 1889 to support the region's fishing and lime industry.

The town takes its name from the small group of houses

that were built for the local fishermen and their families.

These days, its main business is tourism .

It's the closest Northumberland really gets

to the classic British bucket and spade seaside destination.

One of the best ice cream shops in Northumberland.

Coxon's.

These places really do take me back .

I used to love this game. I used to think I could win everything on the shelf.

But you never did.

Argh! Come on.

Do you know, I heard my best joke ever in here.

Came in, I said, "Cod and chips twice." And he went, "I heard you the first time."

When I was growing up in the '70s, many working-class families were,

for the first time, jetting off to exotic-sounding places like Majorca and Benidorm.

But I wouldn't have swapped our holidays in drizzly Northumberland for anything.

Just like back then, one of the main attractions of coming to Seahouses

is the boat trips out to the Farne Islands .

Every year, more than 45,000 tourists take the three-mile boat ride

across the bay to experience these steep volcanic rocks,

which are home to 23 different species of birds and a colony of grey seals.

William Shiel runs trips out to the islands

on a fleet of boats named the Glad Tidings .

It's been the Shiel family business for nearly 100 years.

It was William's grandad, John Shiel,

who ran the very first boat trips to the Farnes in 1918, just after the First World War.

In the early days, when the grandfather and father was crab and lobster fishing,

down to the harbour would come one or two birdwatchers

that would ask to go out to the islands to view the seabirds.

So they would take them out in the old coble and have a view of the seabirds.

Seahouses' main industry moved from fishing to tourism in the '60s and '70s,

and the Shiel boat business went from strength to strength,

led by William's dad, Billy .

He even escorted royalty out to the Farnes, you know.

The highlight of Father's career would be meeting the Queen.

They picked the Queen off the royal yacht in 1958.

He entertained the Queen Mother in 1962 - again, a boat trip out to the island.

When Billy died in 2011, it was son William's turn to take the helm.

Nowadays, with the seven boats that we've got, we're taking thousands of people out each year.

They travel from all over the world.

We have a little bit more business now than what Dad had in the early days.

There's a little bit more to look after, but I'm trying. Trying. (Chuckles)

Today, William's taken time out from his busy schedule

to escort another keen visitor out to the Farnes .

I'm looking forward to this.

- William. - Hello, Robson.

- How are you, man? - Not too bad.

- Good to see you. Really good to see you. - You too.

Is it important to you to carry on what your dad had with the boats?

I would say so. He left a good legacy, so I think it's only fair that I carry it on.

- There's lots of tourism comes here. - Keeping you busy?

- We are. They're keeping us busy, yes. - Good.

Your dad would be proud. Your dad would be proud.

- Right, William, pedal to the metal. - Let's go.

At low tide, the Farnes are made up of 30 tiny islands.

I'm travelling to one called Inner Farne .

The islands are uninhabited, apart from a handful of National Trust rangers

who spend nine months here every year,

looking after one of Britain's largest bird colonies.

I'm going to spend the next day and night living with the rangers,

to experience a side of these islands only a privileged few get to see.

I've got a feeling the next 24 hours is gonna be a whole new experience.

I have no idea what to expect.

But whatever happens... I've got a feeling it's going to be entertaining.

As we approached the island, I was in for a surprise.

Wow, look at you, you beauties!

Ha-ha-ha!

I wasn't prepared for the sheer number of birds that greeted me.

Tens of thousands of them .

The Farnes in peak season are one of Britain's greatest natural wonders.

The noise is deafening .

That is unbelievable!

Look at that sight! You've got puffins, guillemots, cormorants...

Isn't that just wonderful!

- Well, I never. - (Squawking continues)

It really must be an isolated existence here for the rangers.

I mean, what sort of person chooses to live on this tiny rock in the North Sea?

David Steel, how the devil are you?

How are you, sir?

Here to greet me is Head Ranger, David Steel .

- I come bearing gifts. - Oh, supplies! Brilliant.

I tell you, the team are looking forward to this.

Yes, I'm not the only thing being delivered by William Shiel's boat today.

There's also vital supplies from the mainland, like drinking water...

Well, that must be lunch, and it looks like the postman's been.

Gas bill. Double glazing.

- There's a speeding fine in there. - It... it... (Laughs)

Oh, no, there's some post, some personal post. There you go.

- Ah... - The rest of it's just bills!

David's worked on Inner Farne for the past 13 years.

No-one knows this place better than him .

So what have we got here? This is a tern, isn't it?

These birds are incredible. These birds are arctic terns.

And they actually winter off the packed ice of the Antarctic.

That's how far they go. Come back here and breed, and here they are.

Look at you! You all right, mate?

- (Squawks) Whoa, steady. I come in peace.

I tell you...

It's superb.

- Whoa! - Oh, 'ey up!

We're now being attacked by terns.

- That wasn't in the script. - (Laughs)

Just relax, Robson.

They told me this place was like a location from a movie.

They didn't tell me it was Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds.

They start out these colours, and after a month or so, they turn to this colour.

You know what? I've been crapped on from a great height many a time, David,

but never by an arctic tern.

Well, there you go. First time for everything. Let's go.

- You look ridiculous. - (Both laugh)

This is absolute mayhem, David. It's absolute chaos.

One's just attacked the director. I think it's drawn blood. (Laughs)

All right, just listen up!

I come... Ow! You swine!

Ow! He got me!

It's not often you find yourself outnumbered 30,000-1 by another species.

Did you ever get the feeling you're not wanted, Robson?

I'm trespassing. This is definitely their land.

The Inner Farne belongs to the birds.

And I can see why David...

...and his team, the rangers, want to preserve something like this.

Well, having been terrorised by terns and poo'd on by puffins,

I'm ready for some home comforts .

Maybe I'll find them here .

This disused lighthouse is one of only four buildings on the island

and it's going to be my home for the next 24 hours.

Built in 1809. Hasn't changed much.