The first 191 lines.
- We're here in the small fishing town
of Chioggia,
at the southern end of the Venetian Lagoon.
My name's Narelle, and together with my husband Patrick,
the skipper, we've been running and maintaining
this vintage yacht for over 25 years.
The yacht will be our home as we, and Shadow, our dog,
take you away on this exciting odyssey of food and culture.
While Barinia's annual makeover is being finished,
we have enough time to acquaint you
with this lovely town of Chioggia,
and with some of the colorful characters
we've come to know here.
- Chioggia is the busiest fishing port
on all of mainland Italy,
and the fish markets are its heartbeat.
Today, we are visiting the wholesale fish market
and meeting up with the director, Dr. Venerucci.
We're here today to meet a local restaurateur
and his buyer.
They're from El Gato,
considered one of Chioggia's finest restaurants.
The variety of produce here on the floor is mind boggling.
But believe me, the Venetians never run out
of the creative ideas on how to use it all.
This impressive gallinella fish,
or what we call gurnard,
is a great favorite with the locals.
It's on the menu today here at El Gato.
Before we are shown how to cook the gallinella
for the main course,
the sous chef is showing us an idea for a starter.
A selection of local seafood on a bed of asparagus puree.
Okay, so what are you gonna make?
It is a Asparagi.
- He's finely slicing the asparagus on an angle,
leaving the spearhead whole.
In the pan with some olive oil and garlic.
It's a aglio olio.
Okay, olive oil and garlic.
Heat that, yes.
Then he adds a capesante, or a scallop as we call it.
Monkfish.
A mussel, a scampi, and a prawn.
Put in prosecco? - Prosecco.
- He pours prosecco over it and lets it simmer.
Seasons it with black pepper, then adds a splash of water
and simmers until the sauce thickens a little
Five.
Until it evaporates a little.
Oh, the smell's wonderful.
The seafood for this dish should only take minutes to cook.
The exact timing is really down to the eye
to make sure that the flesh remains tender.
Really beautiful.
Now you'd have this, it makes a beautiful first course.
And to drink, what would you drink with it?
Vino, a prosecco
Prosecco, of course.
A prosecco, okay. Beautiful.
So monkfish.
- capesante - capesante, scallop
Scampi
A scampi.
And a prawn.
He spreads a generous tablespoon
of the puree of asparagus, which was cooked and blended.
Okay, the monkfish first.
Carefully places the monk fish, scampi,
scallop, and the prawn,
then arranges the finely chopped asparagus on top.
And to finish, he tops the dish with the mussel,
placing the asparagus spearhead in the shell.
With the asparagus, too. Oh that is so beautiful.
Bravo. Really beautiful.
Not only is this a unique combination of delicate flavors,
it's simple, healthy, and perfect for the weight conscious.
Now it's time to prepare the fish of the day, the galinella.
This gallinella is somewhat smaller
than the one we saw in the market,
but it's perfect to serve one or two people.
You could substitute the gallinella
with any firm white fleshed fish from your local market.
Salt, a little olive oil.
The head chef here cooks it twice.
Ah, you do turn it over, okay.
First on the grill to give it a smokey flavor.
Olive oil and garlic.
Bring that to the heat, into the pan.
Then it is simmered in Prosecco
with a delicious cherry tomato, olive oil,
and vinegar reduction to soften it,
and infuse flavor into the flesh.
Salt, and now the vinegar.
A white wine vinegar, okay.
This is simply delicious.
The Mediterranean on a plate.
No preservatives.
No additives.
Just good, natural, healthy ingredients
cooked to perfection.
Food trends may come and go, but this is a perfect example
of how a classic combination of ingredients and flavors
will simply never die.
A vital link in the local food culture are the fishermen.
I'd like you to meet a local fisherman
who fishes for a delicacy called Moeche,
a softshell crab.
Manuel is part of an ancient tradition
of net and pole fishing on the Venetian lagoon.
It started over 1500 years ago.
These fishermen are called the Moecanti.
In the early hours,
we joined them on their small fishing boat
and head out into the lagoon.
This is a small time cottage industry
carried out by artisans.
- It's the first of the buyers checking
and bidding on his day's catch.
Do you like this work, Christian?
Yes, yes.
And you like working with your father?
Yes, yes.
- You come every day. - Every day.
- The Moecanti's detailed knowledge
of the crab's lifecycle is extremely important
in the process of selection.
Christian is sorting the crabs by their sex
and by the stage they've reached
in the shedding of their shell.
The Moecanti keep those that are ready to shed
in containers called vieri,
waiting to capitalize on the moment
when the young crabs lose their shell
and just before they grow a new one.
This is when it becomes a Moeche
and it's immediately taken to market and sold alive.
This requires knowledge and experience
which take many years to acquire
and are typically passed from father to son.
Today there are only a couple of hundred Moecantis
still working on the lagoon.
Manuel and Christian have invited us to join them
and the other fishermen to try some of the catch of the day
barbecued in their hut.
It looks like we're in for a cooking frenzy,
and it seems that half the fishing fleet
are here to join in.
Their makeshift kitchen is producing results
that could rival any gourmet restaurant.
As you can see, sardines cooked on a hot plate
continue to be a staple of local cuisine.
The best way to eat these humble fish is hot,
straight off the grill.
I notice them cooking capesante, the local scallops.
He places them on the piping hot barbecue
with a drizzle of olive oil, Parmesan, parsley,
a sprinkling of garlic and a splash of Grappa
to flambé them.
But as if this isn't enough, he adds a good slug of Prosecco
in the tray below to steam them.
It's time to relax for a sundowner with Manuel and Christian
and thank them for their generous insight
into Chioggioto life.
This is our friend Amadeus Senoretto
As you can see, the seafood of this town
is even reflected in the art.
After finishing the painting,
he invites us upstairs for lunch
to cook the sardines he's just immortalized on canvas.
Chioggia's about one hour's drive over land from Venice,
or an hour and 15 minutes by water on the Vaporetto.
Like Venice, Chioggia is an island in the lagoon
built around canals and boats.
This canal is called Vena, which means vein.
It originally carried the town's lifeblood
in the form of fresh water from the Brenta River.
Chioggia has often been described
as the poor man's Venice,
but it's more an image of what Venice might have been
if it had remained a fishing settlement
and had never discovered the riches of trade.
Of course, its seafood cuisine is legendary.
To close a perfect day,
we're taken sailing on Chioggia's Harbor
on a traditional boat called a bragozzo.
Designed both for fishing and for cargo carrying,
these vessels with their wide hub and flat bottom
are perfectly suited to the shallow waters of the lagoon.
Nowadays, they're maintained by enthusiasts for pleasure
and are almost symbolic of Chioggia,
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