Big Wednesday

...that would blow through the canyons.

It was a hot wind called a Santa Ana and it carried the smell...

...of warm places.

It blew the strongest before dawn across the Point.

We would sleep in our cars...

...and the smell of the wind would wake us.

And each morning, we knew this would be a special day.

I'm never gonna drink again.

If you hadn't passed out, it woulïve been okay.

Where's your board?

- In my car. - Where's your car?

- I don't know. - Wait. Stop. Wait a minute.

- Look at that. - Good swell.

- Wait a minute. - If you want to go down these steps...

...you have to do it on your own.

I remember the three friends best.

Matt, Jack, Leroy. It was their time.

They were the big names then. The kings.

Our own royalty. It was really their place...

...and their story.

I'm Leroy, the Masochist. I live here.

My friend is close to death, and we need to get him in the water.

- Could we possibly use your fine...? - Hey, man.

- I don't lend my stick to anyone. - I understand what you mean about...

...not lending your board out. This is Matt Johnson. He lives here...

...along with me and Mr. Barlow. May I please borrow it?

I'll bring it back to you personally, my word of honor.

- I can't lend my stick to a ho-dad. - He's no ho-dad.

Thats Matt Johnson! Can I please use your board?

My dad just bought this.

We want to use your board! That’s all!

You can use my board.

Thank you.

Back over here. Johnson!

I've got a vehicle.

You're gonna have to get up there on your own.

That’s not Matt Johnson.

See you later, Matt.

- Oh, its cold! - You're doing fine.

Just keep paddling, Matt.

I'm gonna drown.

Do what you have to. I've gotta get some waves.

If you leave me, I'm gonna drown.

I'm gonna drown...

...and all you're gonna find is this shitty old board.

- Man! - They'll all drown.

He's gonna get sucked over! Look at the guy!

Look at the guy!

I don't believe it!

- Nobody's that good! - That is Matt Johnson!

Matt Johnson on my board!

Its gonna be a real hooter tonight.

- I scored a keg for your party. - I don't know about any party.

Come on, summer's almost over. Lets get radical.

- Come on. You're just getting old. - He was born old.

My wave!

All right, lets do it!

Would you like to go to a party with me tonight at Barlow's?

I don't even know you.

I'm Leroy, the Masochist, and I'll do anything.

What a radical guy.

Enforcer! Go get her!

Get her number, Enforcer! She's your type!

Those Valley barbarians are using women in the front ranks.

Taking advantage of our chivalry.

Hey, you dumb Okie!

Hey, Johnson!

- Matt, get over here. - We'll buddy up.

Dive over.

After we surfed, we'd go down to the old pier...

...to the Bear's shop. Bear made our boards and told stories.

He knew where waves came from and why.

Like the surfers that came before us, we saw everything in the Bear.

- Was Matt always hot? - You think he's pretty great, huh?

Well, he is good. So is Jack and Leroy, in his own way.

He could use a little more experience.

They'd get it if they kept on surfing.

What? Those guys are so stoked, they'll surf forever.

Nobody surfs forever...

...except for old Shopping Cart. He's the only one thats left.

- How you doing? - Got any chopped mussel?

Same as yesterday.

I caught me a couple of fish.

Caught me a tuna...

...and a halibut. Look at that.

That halibut looks short.

- They're supposed to be about 22. - For sure?

You'd better get it back in your sack.

Have you seen the law around here lately?

Not yet.

Get him some chopped mussel.

I don't think he'll see that now.

What kind of board is this?

I've never seen a shape like this before.

- A big-wave board. - Thank you.

A gun.

I rode this board in the Islands.

Once I rode it alone in Point Surf at Makaha at 20 feet.

- You rode 20 feet alone? - You're always alone, anyway.

That’s the test of a surfer.

You shouldn't have to depend on anybody.

- Will you ever ride this board again? - I don't know.

It would take a big day.

But then you hear talk of a big day every now and then, huh?

It'll happen again.

- It happened in '50. - He rode. I was here.

It’ll be a swell so big and strong it will wipe everything clean.

That’s when this board will be ridden.

That’s when Matt, Jack and Leroy...

...they could distinguish themselves.

That’s the day they can draw the line.

I hear you're having a party tonight.

- I told you, no dirty feet in here. - Yes, ma'am.

- The special today? - Medium and rare.

- I'll have spaghetti. - Smart mouth.

Make mine raw, with spaghetti.

- You can walk mine down to the grill. - And a wiseass.

- Spaghetti. Two, please. - Yes, ma'am.

I hear you're having another party tonight.

- All the punks are talking about it. - I don't know about any party.

Does your mother know? I bet not.

- Destructo! - Will you delinquents shut up?

Someday you'll have to straighten out and earn a decent living.

Pay attention and grow up sometime.

Turn into a respectable person.

He's a well-respected surfer.

That’s not a sport, its a disease.

Well...

I see you boys have noticed. This is Sally.

She's from Chicago, and she's a nice girl.

I don't want you to give her no trouble.

You're from Chicago? Been out here a long time?

- About three weeks. - You like it here?

I like it a lot.

This is raw.

Mine too.

I really like the way a square-tail breaks in the turn...

...you get right up on the nose. - That’s just your Okie attitude.

- A pintail... - Ever go down to the beach?

On the weekends. Sundays, mostly.

Soft rocks feel good, huh?

- I think I'll throw my food on you. - I wouldn't do that.

Hey, wait just a damn minute!

Get out! Now! Get out! Come on!

Outside!

Come on! Out!

Take it out! And you, watch it!

You're having a party tonight, right?

Yeah.

- Matt! You bring cerveza? - She's in the trunk.

- Hi, Matt! Peggy! - The Enforcer. Shake a tail feather.

We're here! The party can start!

- Who are all these people? - I have no idea. I've never seen them.

We thought this was the bathroom.

- It's right down the hall. - Bye-bye. See you in a few minutes.

Don't forget your shoe.

I had no idea...

Matt is responsible for all this. He invited people I don't even know.

- The music's too loud. - Matt Johnson invited...

- The music is still too loud! - We'll turn it down.

- I can't believe it. - Keep Crusher off my coffee table.

I don't know.

I can't believe you'd wear those shoes to this.

You've got a great figure. Is that a padded bra?

- No, this is all me. - You're kidding!

- You should try a padded bra. - I have one on.

I'm sorry.

- Sally, hi! Come over here. - How are you?

Two of us in one sleeping bag! He has the nerve.

He's always with somebody else.

- What are they doing? - We're gonna roast the Masochist.

- How do you like haole? - Medium, so he stays real ono.

His ancestors were cannibals. They ate Captain Cook.

I missed your elbow.

Let me know when you're floured, Leroy.

I'll be right back. I'm going to sleep.

- They're gonna cook you, huh? - I don't give a damn.

- That feels great. - How far can you go?

You know how far I can go.

If they dragged me away, would you come get me?

Yes.

- Would you come and...? - No matter what?

- You know I'd come and get you. - No matter what?

Yeah.

Its really different here.

How do you mean?

Well...

...back home, being young...

...was just something you do until you grow up.

And, well, here...

...here its everything!

- You think I can fit in there? - Keep down in a crouch. Go for it!

Hello?

You got a bunch of surfers in there?

- Gosh sakes alive! - Its Hog.

Is there a party going on here, shorty?

What's your name? You want to get our hats and coats?

This guy have a coat rack?

Oh, jeez, you got bad breath!

I think there's some crashers downstairs.